![]() ![]() Keep moving outwards until the verticals are practically straight. Click and drag it out to the side, holding down Shift on the keyboard to keep things level. Hold down Ctrl (Cmd on a Mac) and select one of the top corner transform controls. If this doesn't display make sure your image layer isn't locked (double click it and hit enter), and ensure the Show Transform Controls button is ticked in the toolbar at the top of the window. Once the image is open in Photoshop CC use the move tool (V) to reveal the transform controls, the squares in the corners, and halfway along the edges of the photo. I don't recommend this method as there are easier and more accurate ways of doing it, but for old time's sake, I'll outline the most basic form of doing this. The old method of correcting converging verticals would be to alter things manually. The basic way of correcting parallax in Photoshop is also one of the least accurate and time-consuming Tick Constrain Crop if you want Lightroom to automatically crop the image without leaving any gaps around the edge of the frame. In the shot above I've given some negative Vertical slider at -43 to bring the top part of the frame out wider, and a little positive Horizontal at +4, making the right turret larger to help balance the visual weight of the scene. Auto usually does a pretty good job of correcting any issues but manual adjustment can be made to the image at any time (regardless of whether a preset is being used or not) using the sliders beneath. There are six preset options to choose from including Auto, Guided, Level, Vertical, and Full (as well as Off). Open up the Develop module and head down to the Transform panel. In Lightroom Classic it's pretty easy to correct the converging verticals, or pretty much any straight lines, in photos. Lightroom Classic has a quick and easy way to counteract converging verticals on buildings and even has automatic presets that can study the photograph and make adjustments on your behalf Aim to shoot your architectural subject about 10-20% wider by either zooming out, using a wider lens, or moving back with the camera. In order to address this potential issue and avoid having to extend the canvas and paint in more sky, there's a quick remedy to bear in mind. However, if we were to try and correct this in software the top part of the frame, above the castle, would become so minuscule that the composition would be ruined. In the image above the castle slants away from the camera thanks to the parallax distortion. ![]() In order to make any corrections to this distortion using software, we must capture the subject in such a way that relieves us of heavy editing when developing the image. When it comes to photographing a building the parallax effect can really make a difference between a beginner's snap and a more refined photograph. In this photo the castle is leaning back away from the camera, but should we try and correct this in the editing stage we may have to paint back in some sky and tree in the top of the frame because there's not enough vertical space to complete the edit successfully ![]()
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